Serves: 4-6
As a child I hated fish. The smell, the texture, and the taste were all too "fishy" for my beef-inclined palate...although fish sticks I could handle. Luckily with age and a move toward where tasty fish actually live, ie the ocean, I fell in love with all things fishy. Albacore, oysters, and everything in between became regular vocabulary in my food dialogue, where the resounding refrain is "fresh fish makes the dish". Not everyone is a fan of the treasures of the sea, but if you are, I think you'll find this recipe as good as gold.
I came up with this chowder when I was in the grocery store preparing to make a Portuguese stew and stopped short in the fresh fish section: fish heads. Yes, big, beautiful, sockeye salmon fish heads, peering up at me with their glassy wide eyes. I gave them a wink and grabbed one: homemade stock here I come. I decided a nice soupy savoury fish chowder is just what this damp cool weather calls for.
Usually I've make fish stock from an assortment of mussel and clam shells, or fish bones. Today was my first head, and staring it down I remembered this past summer cooking a bounty of fresh sockeye: stuffed with thyme and barbequed on a wood fire, fried fillets with butter, and salmon burgers. All were delicious, so why not grab those fabulous fish flavours in a no-fuss stock? Of course you can substitute with store-bought stock, but next time try using a head. Also, you can make the stock a day ahead if it's more convenient. Finally, I tried the stew without cream and it wasn't quite a success, so be sure to add the cream to your preference.
Since this recipe covers all of the food groups perfectly, it makes a great lunch or dinner so come sail away....
For the stock:
1 large fish head (or two small)
10-20 sprigs fresh thyme
1 medium onion, quartered
3-5 tsp salt
1) Place all ingredients in a medium pot.
2) Cover with water and bring to a boil
3) Reduce heat, cover, and simmer for 2-3h until the taste is no longer watery; remove the cover if necessary. Enjoy the steamy aroma and drain through a sieve.
For the Stew:
1 lb salmon or snapper filets, cubed
1 medium onion, chopped finely
2 tsp fresh thyme
1 tsp dried parsley
pinch of red chili flaskes
1 fennel bulb (cutting directions below)
0.5 lb green kale, stalks removed, leaves thinly chopped
1 lb nugget potatoes, peeled and quartered
2 tablespoons butter
~1/2 cup heavy cream
8 cups stock (best is at least 4 cups fish stock, and the remaining amount in vegetable stock)
salt and pepper to taste
Fun with Fennel:
At the market or grocery store, fennel looks a bit like an alien vegetable, not quite an onion and not quite celery....plus dill appears to be growing from the celery portions. On top of that it smells like old man licorice. What do you do with fennel? So far, I'm not sure besides making soup. But here's how to cut it:
1) Cut the green stalks off of the white bulb.
2) Remove the slightly discoloured outer layer of the bulb.
3) Slice off a piece of the bottom , removing the dry and hard end of the bulb. Cut in half and slice out the tough core at the base.
4) Chop the remaining fennel as you would chop an onion and set aside.
For the Soup:
1) Heat the butter in a large pot over medium-high heat.
2) Add the onion, potatoes, fennel, chili flakes, parsley and thyme as soon as the butter has melted. Season with salt and pepper as you like. Cook until the onions and fennel are soft.
3) Add the fish and vegetable stock. Bring to a boil before reducing the heat to medium-low.
4) When the potatoes are almost cooked, add the kale and stir until the greens are soft. Increase the heat if needed.
5) Stir in enough heavy cream to reach the desired consistency (will vary depending on the cream).
5) Add the fish and stir, seasoning with salt and pepper to taste.
6) When the fish is cooked through (about 5 minutes), ring your dinner bell and dive in.
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